A pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera in silhouette against an orange sunset over Kyoto

Nwary's Japan

You, me, and a little plan I can't wait to take you on.

Day 1

Tokyo

Crowds on the Shibuya Sky rooftop facing a golden sunset over Tokyo
first evening, up here

Your first Tokyo sunset

We land in Tokyo, and because you love sunsets, our first one comes from the Shibuya Sky rooftop. It's already booked.

Day 2

Tokyo

A plate of nigiri sushi and rolls at Tsukiji Outer Market
sushi for breakfast!
Rows of white beckoning cat figures at Gotokuji temple
they're all waving at you

Sushi, then cats

Your day starts with sushi breakfast at Tsukiji Outer Market, then Gotokuji, the temple with thousands of beckoning cat figures. Try picking a favourite.

After dark

Tokyo

The red gate of Kabukicho and bright neon signs at night in Shinjuku
all these lights

Tokyo after dark

You'll walk through Shinjuku's neon, then into Omoide Yokocho, a tiny, smoky alley of yakitori stalls. We'll take our time choosing.

Day 3

Tokyo

Close-up of pink double cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Gyoen
a spot under the blossoms
A white cat resting on a stone wall in Yanaka
Yanaka local

Your picnic in Tokyo

First, a picnic for you under the cherry blossoms in Shinjuku Gyoen. Then we'll stretch our legs with an evening walk through old Yanaka.

Day 4

Zama

A blue R34 Nissan Skyline GT-R
i'll try not to squeal
A white R35 Nissan GT-R in Japan
this one too

One day for my GT-R obsession

Please humour me at Zama's Nissan Heritage Collection: old Skyline GT-Rs and race cars. With luck, you'll get more happy rambling at Daikoku's car meet after dark.

On the road

Everywhere

A small mint blue Honda N-One kei car with a yellow number plate
small car, big plans

Tiny cars, your turn

Japan's little boxy kei cars have yellow plates, so you know what to look for. We'll count them as we walk, and yes, it's a competition.

Next: bullet train to Kyoto, about 2ΒΌ hours

Day 5

Nara

A sika deer in Nara Park looking at the camera
just one more bow

A few very polite new friends

We're off to Nara, where the deer bow for deer crackers. You bring your best manners, and I'll remind you we can't take one home.

Day 6

Kyoto

The red gate of Kiyomizu-dera in soft evening light
no hurry here

Stay a little longer

I'm taking you to Kiyomizu-dera's wooden terrace at golden hour. This part of the plan is mostly standing together and looking.

Day 7

Kyoto

Cherry blossoms in front of the Ninna-ji temple gate
the late bloomers
A quiet Kyoto lane of dark wooden walls, its paving stones wet with rain
your kind of rainy day
Slices of pressed mackerel sushi on a white plate
saba-zushi

Kyoto, even in rain

You get Ninna-ji's low, late-blooming cherry trees today. If it rains, we'll take a slow umbrella walk down the old wooden lanes, then have saba-zushi, pressed mackerel sushi.

Every night

Everywhere

A row of bright drink vending machines beside a park in Tokyo
one more snack

Your midnight snack mission

You pick the konbini snacks at midnight. We'll spot drink machines on quiet corners, because everyday Japan deserves your attention too.

Next: bullet train and a local train to Onomichi

Day 8

Onomichi

Three cats sitting together on Onomichi's cat alley
you saw that cat, right

Cats on the steps

You'll have company on Onomichi's steep Cat Alley, Neko no Hosomichi: painted lucky-cat stones and real cats on the steps. I suspect we'll be stopping often.

Day 9

Onomichi

Pink and purple dusk sky over the lights of Onomichi and the sea
a little pink for you

Another sunset for you

We'll ride the ropeway up to Senkoji Park and stay for sunset over the Seto Inland Sea islands, then walk back down through the old lanes.

Next: train to Osaka, about 2 hours

Day 10

Osaka

Plates of sushi passing on a conveyor belt
here comes your next plate
A plate of tuna and avocado sushi rolls
your avocado watch starts here

Sushi comes to you

You'll try conveyor-belt sushi in Osaka, where it was invented, while we keep watch for avocado. Then we'll wander through Kuromon Market and see what catches your eye.

After dark

Osaka

Bright billboards reflected in the Dotonbori canal at night
look up, then take a bite

Osaka after dark

You'll meet Osaka after dark along the Dotonbori canal, with giant signs and the running man neon. We'll try takoyaki as we go.

Day 11

Osaka

Osaka Castle seen through cherry blossoms under a blue sky
a little longer with you

One more walk

Before Kansai Airport, you and I have one last walk through the cherry trees in Osaka Castle Park. I'm glad we saved time for this.

See you in Japan, Nwary

Japan is about to get a little cuter with you in it.